There’s something magical about chasing clouds—walking above them, feeling the crisp morning air, and witnessing landscapes that seem almost unreal. For adventurers and nature lovers, few experiences compare to reaching the summit of Mount Pulag, Luzon’s third-highest peak. From its star-filled skies to the iconic sea of clouds, this trek is an unforgettable journey through freezing temperatures, enchanted forests, and a sunrise that makes every step worth it.
The Frozen Anticipation
Our journey began in a homestay so cold that even indoors, we could see our breath. Outside, the temperature hovered below zero. At 12:10 AM, we fueled up with lugaw (rice porridge) and coffee, essential for the first and most challenging part: adjusting to both the cold and the altitude.
As we layered up with jackets, gloves, and hats, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and nervousness. The first challenge wasn’t just the hike—it was simply preparing our bodies to handle both the biting cold and the thin mountain air. Every movement felt heavier than usual, and I realized that this climb would test both endurance and mental resilience.
By 1:19 AM, we were on the move. The world was pitch-black, lit only by headlamps, while above, the Milky Way stretched across a sky full of stars. Rocky paths, wet edges, and streams from mountain springs marked the early terrain, leading us through local vegetable gardens along the way.
The terrain started with rocky paths and slippery edges, occasionally dotted with local vegetable gardens that used mountain spring water for irrigation. Water hoses snaked along the path, and the sound of flowing streams became a gentle companion as we moved in silence. The cold made our breaths visible with every exhale, and the crunch of gravel underfoot reminded us that the mountain demanded focus, even in its beauty.
The Battle with Altitude
Ascending toward Camp 2 was a true test of endurance. We relied on “1-minute recovery” breaks to manage our breathing. The altitude hit hardest on my companion, Janine, whose heart rate spiked to 160–170 bpm, requiring careful pacing. Our salt-and-lemon hack became a lifesaver, keeping cramps at bay and hydration steady.
The altitude hit my companion Janine the hardest. Her heart rate spiked to 160–170 bpm, forcing us to slow down considerably. We had to carefully pace ourselves to avoid altitude sickness or more serious health issues. One trick that saved us multiple times was our salt-and-lemon hack—dipping lemon in salt and sipping water helped prevent cramps and maintain hydration, a small but crucial hack on such a demanding trek.
The trail itself became increasingly challenging: loose rocks, muddy paths, and steep slopes tested balance and stamina. Yet, there was something meditative about moving slowly and deliberately through the dark, surrounded only by the glow of headlamps and the occasional distant sounds of wildlife.
The Summit: 2,926 Meters Above Sea Level
Finally, after hours of climbing, we reached the summit at 2,926 MASL. The moment was almost surreal. The grasslands around us had transformed into a golden-yellow carpet, swaying gently in the morning breeze. As the sun rose, the sea of clouds unfolded below, stretching endlessly like a rolling ocean.
Standing at the summit, the exhaustion of the climb melted away, replaced by awe and gratitude. Mount Pulag is the highest peak in Luzon and third-highest in the Philippines, and it was easy to see why. Every frozen step, every aching muscle, and every racing heartbeat led to this breathtaking panorama. It was a humbling reminder of nature’s beauty and the reward of perseverance.
The Descent: “Windows XP” and the Mossy Forest
Descending brought a different kind of wonder. With the darkness gone, the rolling green hills reminded us of the classic Windows XP background, a surreal landscape we could barely believe was real.
We passed through the Mossy Forest, where moss draped over tree branches like green velvet and fog added a mystical quality to every step. It felt like stepping into a scene from a fantasy movie. But the descent was not without its challenges. The long, steep trail punished our knees and joints, and the temperature swung from freezing cold in the early morning to scorching sun by late morning. The combination left us with a unique “sunburn from the cold and the sun”—an odd but memorable souvenir from the trek.
Hiking poles became essential, and for those who struggled with the steep path, habal-habal motorcycles were available near the end, a helpful option for tired legs.
Essential Tips for Future Hikers
Budget & Packages
A tour package is highly recommended for convenience and safety:
- Cost: Php 4,500
- Inclusions: Van transportation, homestay accommodation, meals, tour guide, drone shots, DENR fee
- DIY vs. Tour: A DIY trek is possible if you have your own vehicle, but packages simplify logistics and allow you to focus on the experience.
Trail & Terrain
- Duration: ~9-10 hours (up and down)
- Steps & Distance: ~27,000+ steps, 16+ km
- Key Landmarks: Pine Forest & vegetable gardens → Mossy Forest → Grasslands near the summit
Gear & Hacks
- Hydration Hack: Salt and lemon helps prevent cramps and dehydration
- Layering: Temperatures vary from freezing at night to hot by noon; layers are essential
- Health Monitoring: Track heart rate; rest immediately if it spikes
- Sweeper Guide: Ensures no one is left behind, crucial for night trekking
- Knee Support: Hiking poles and possibly knee braces help on steep descents; habal-habal motorcycles are available for tired legs
Respect the Mountain
Mount Pulag is a vital water source for locals, so treat it with care:
- Avoid litter
- Keep noise down
- Respect wildlife and other hikers
Final Thoughts
Climbing Mount Pulag is more than a physical challenge—it’s a mental and emotional journey. From walking under the stars to standing above the sea of clouds, every step leaves an unforgettable mark. Prepare well, respect the mountain, and you’ll experience one of Luzon’s most breathtaking vistas—an adventure that stays with you long after you descend.
To see this adventure come alive, watch my vlog of Mount Pulag on my YouTube channel for the full experience from start to summit.
Leave a Reply